Please bear in mind, there are many ways to go about doing this job and this is not
to say that there aren't better methods to tackle this problem.  This is also to show
what can be done when the engine is out of the car and at a quality machinists shop.

**** Viewers are warned that if they attempt any mechanical repairs or modifications,
or follow procedures referred to here, they do so at their own risk, and no liability will
attach to either myself, Mason's Racing Engines or Scott Helms.****

These are the washers supplied by Scott and what is available below them from other sources.

***  Please note:  These are SOLID Bronze Washers, not steel with a thin plating on top. ***

Under normal circumstances, you would order the required thickness from
Scott at CTW and they would arrive in two halves, ready to fit to your engine.

I explained what I wanted to do to Scott and he agreed to sell me the complete
blank, prior to cutting it in half, which Bob would do after some additional work.
These are solid Bronze alloy and are thicker than the coated samples shown below.

These are the washers supplied by the major other LBC sources.
If you look closely, you can see the two colors of the metal as the toplayer on
either side is plated.  The side to block doesn't really need it since it won't move.

These are not bad parts, but not what I wanted to do in my situation.

This type of washer has and will continue to reliably repair thousands of engines.
Remember, my engine was completely apart and at a racing engine shop, where
nearly anything that you can imagine can be fabricated or machined. 

These older style are a drop in solution, that if used properly will last a long time.

Bob studied the Triumph engine design and evaluated the entire engine before
making any decision to arbitrarily cut steel from a cast block.  These types of decisions
are not made lightly.  After measuring the new bronze washers and calculating the
amount of material that we wanted to remove from the washer mating surface on
the block, the machining began.

Above and below are the locations for the thrust washers from the factory.  As I said
earlier, there are several ways to do this and for many reasons we chose to keep the
original design, but to rely on a better designed washer material and surface.

An equal amount of material was removed from the outside (above) and the inside area
of the engine block bearing surface.  This was several .000" and will vary from block to block.

As you can see, the original design was not impacted at all by this machine work.
The thicker new washers fit in here tightly and have no chance to move.

If this choice is made, the ideal time is when the line boring of the block takes place.

I had originally thought that I would end up with a spare set of washers by cutting the
two full circles in half, but it doesn't quite work out that way.  The side with the "X" is
actually a slight bit longer than the other and this will allow the custom fitting to the
block as assembly begins.  Please note the two slots in the washer face on one side only.
These slots are for oil flow and must face the crankshaft side.  Also the chamfer that is
located on the inner radius, must match that of the crankshaft journal to throw transition
radius.  This is NOT an area that you would want any sharp corners.

This is the back side of each washerg that is located opposite of the crankshaft surface.

Solid bronze, which I feel is the only way to go with these.

This is the transition or inside corner radius that must be matched on the crankshaft.

After over 1,000 miles great oil pressure and not any movement in the damper when
the clutch is engaged.  And adding the 9 lb. Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel will help
extend the life of these washers a lot in comparison to the heavy steel original unit.

Another fine job by Bob Mason of

Mason's Racing Engines

53 Hartford Avenue

North Scituate, RI 02857

Toll Free 888-235-1622