The questions is, how do you turn this:

Into this?

I don't know what you would do, but I went to Erik at Her Majesty's to get it done.

The Engine Assembly & Installation 2008 project reaches it's completion from here.

Before we got into the painting of the block, there were a few remaining details
to be completed on the bottom end and then the dummy oil pan could be installed.

First was the removal of the the timing gear set and front cover to install
the new steel saddle block made by Classic Technologies, Inc.. 

We decided to use the neoprene seals rather than the wood seals normally used.

This is a first quality part and should bea part of every major engine rebuilding
project to eliminate the leaks up front.  replica rolex watches These threads are sometimes stripped
on the original aluminum blocks when the oil pan is over tightened to stop a leak.

These new style neoprene seals that come with the Payem lower end gasket set
are a little tricky to get in, but they do seal it up really well when installed.

Proper placement of the two paper gaskets under each end of the saddle block is
very important.  The tabs must face inward and on the front of each side.

After bolt down on the saddle block.  These threads are also others that can get stripped.

The new oil pump was disassembled and all tolerances were checked as part
of the blueprinting and to insure there would be no pressure surprises on start up.

The reddish colored oil is cam installation lube and the new pump is loaded with it.

Next was this little guy that missed the hot tank cleaning because it stayed back at Erik's.

This was soaked and cleaned and then cleaned again to make sure that
the distributor driven tangs would seat down in properly.

More on the proper shimming of the outer plate later.

Cam installation lube for a part that is driven by the cam.

We're getting closer to paint and assembly time., but first, a little water pump work.

This is the original pump, disassembled and sandblasted, prior to rebuilding.

Notice the five drilled sections of the pulley?  It's been balanced also.

The new pump shaft and bearing is fitted with ceramic seals.

Pressed together to the proper clearance and ready for installation.

The painted and chromed engine parts are starting to come together.

I can lay claim to the many coats of paint on these.

Just back from NE Chrome Plating in Hartford.

A gift decal from my buddy Tyler, whose beautiful blue TR6 graces the new Moss catalog.

The new Wizard radiator and 16" Spal cooing fan set up as a puller.

Having these brackets welded like this gives me additional clearance up front.

This petcock is the one made for the side of a TR6 block and fits perfectly.
Available at TRF if you're interested.

And a newly rebuilt distributor from Jeff at Advanced Distributors.
This one has the Pertronix conversion and is curved for the cam and new engine specs.

And lastly, the new Fidanza flywheel with the new pilot bushing ready to go.
Just a point of reference, this flywheel was perfectly balanced from the factory.

Now for the engine block painting and assembly.  Dummy timing cover and oil pan.

Bob Mason installed all new brass freeze plugs in the block and the head.

This after two light coats and one medium coat of Dupli Color Ceramic 122 engine paint.

This dried for several days and then the Dupli Color High Temp Clear was applied.

That's done and the clear is finally dry, so off comes the paper and covers.

This is the Vernier Adjustable Timing Gear from British Parts Northwest.

My original oil pan is powdered coated red, so this one will be off soon.

These are ARP Studs made for the TR engine.

A look down the lifter bore at a cam lobe. 
These were cleaned again and wiped with cam lube, prior to installation.

The head can't go on until these guys are all lubed up and installed.

On and ready to be torqued down

All of the new studs are in the head for the intake and headers.

This little gear was shown above being cleaned.  It is extremely important that
it be fitted properly and the housing above shimmed accordingly for the distributor.

This spacer will determine the drop allowed for the housing and then it can be shimmed.

The shimming is done with the paper gaskets included in the kit, which is why
a steel shim is used to set the proper depth.

That looks about right.

All set and ready for the distributor to be installed.

It's time to add the externals and get ready to install.

We did clean the overspray from the back of the block.

Do NOT forget the copper washer/gasket on this bolt.

The bolt above has to go on before the cover and flywheel.  Those are ARP bolts also.

It's getting there................ready to find it's home again for good.

It's time to move to the Installation page for the rest of the story.

Engine Installation 2008