questions is, how do you turn this:
know what you would do, but I went to Erik at Her Majesty's to
get it done.
Assembly & Installation 2008 project reaches it's completion from here.
got into the painting of the block, there were a few remaining
to be completed on the bottom end and then the dummy oil pan
could be installed.
the removal of the the timing gear set and front cover to
the new steel saddle block made by
to use the neoprene seals rather than the wood seals normally
This is a
first quality part and should bea part of every major engine rebuilding
project to eliminate the
leaks up front. These threads are sometimes stripped
on the original aluminum blocks when the oil pan is over
tightened to stop a leak.
style neoprene seals that come with the Payem lower end gasket
are a little tricky to get in, but they do seal it up really
well when installed.
placement of the two paper gaskets under each end of the saddle
very important. The tabs must face inward and on the front
of each side.
down on the saddle block. These threads are also others
that can get stripped.
The new oil
pump was disassembled and all tolerances were checked as part
of the blueprinting and to insure there would be no pressure
surprises on start up.
colored oil is cam installation lube and the new pump is loaded
Next was this little guy that
missed the hot tank cleaning because it stayed back at Erik's.
This was soaked and cleaned
and then cleaned again to make sure that
the distributor driven tangs would seat down in properly.
More on the proper shimming
of the outer plate later.
Cam installation lube for a
part that is driven by the cam.
We're getting closer to paint
and assembly time., but first, a little water pump work.
This is the original pump,
disassembled and sandblasted, prior to rebuilding.
Notice the five drilled
sections of the pulley? It's been balanced also.
The new pump shaft and
bearing is fitted with ceramic seals.
Pressed together to the
proper clearance and ready for installation.
The painted and chromed
engine parts are starting to come together.
I can lay claim to the many
coats of paint on these.
Just back from NE Chrome
Plating in Hartford.
A gift decal from my buddy
Tyler, whose beautiful blue TR6 graces the new Moss catalog.
The new Wizard radiator and
16" Spal cooing fan set up as a puller.
Having these brackets welded
like this gives me additional clearance up front.
This petcock is the one made
for the side of a TR6 block and fits perfectly.
Available at TRF if you're interested.
And a newly rebuilt
Jeff at Advanced Distributors.
This one has the Pertronix conversion and is curved for the cam
and new engine specs.
And lastly, the new Fidanza
flywheel with the new pilot bushing ready to go.
Just a point of reference, this flywheel was perfectly balanced
from the factory.
Now for the engine block
painting and assembly. Dummy timing cover and oil pan.
Bob Mason installed all new
brass freeze plugs in the block and the head.
This after two light coats
and one medium coat of Dupli Color Ceramic 122 engine paint.
This dried for several days
and then the Dupli Color High Temp Clear was applied.
That's done and the clear is
finally dry, so off comes the paper and covers.
This is the Vernier
Adjustable Timing Gear from
British Parts Northwest.
My original oil pan is
powdered coated red, so this one will be off soon.
These are ARP Studs made for
the TR engine.
A look down the lifter bore
at a cam lobe.
These were cleaned again and wiped with cam lube, prior to
The head can't go on until
these guys are all lubed up and installed.
On and ready to be torqued
All of the new studs are in
the head for the intake and headers.
This little gear was shown
above being cleaned. It is extremely important that
it be fitted properly and the housing above shimmed accordingly
for the distributor.
This spacer will determine
the drop allowed for the housing and then it can be shimmed.
The shimming is done with the
paper gaskets included in the kit, which is why
a steel shim is used to set the proper depth.
That looks about right.
All set and ready for the
distributor to be installed.
It's time to add the
externals and get ready to install.
We did clean the overspray
from the back of the block.
Do NOT forget the copper
washer/gasket on this bolt.
The bolt above has to go on
before the cover and flywheel. Those are ARP bolts also.
there................ready to find it's home again for good.
It's time to move to the
Installation page for the rest of the story.
Engine Installation 2008
40 Industrial Road
Cranston RI 02920