This is the valve and rebuilding kit from Moss with the
get it apart and see what's lurking inside after thirty plus
By the way,
that white switch is available from Ford Motor Company and
the part number is
#C8AZ-2B264-A. It doesn't matter which terminal that
install the single wire on. It only acts as a ground and
you'll see why in a minute.
The good news is that it is
really pretty clean in there. I've seen much worse.
and gasket came right out and no stripped threads, so that's
prodding with a dental pic helped the piston to come right out.
As I said earlier, the brake fluid wasn't bad in this car and
it's not packed with rust.
everything, except for the copper gasket on the plug that fits
on the housing.
purposes these parts are really big compared to my mini pliers.
cleaned the crap off of the old valve with brake
fluid and then polished the valve with Never Dull.
IMPORTANT item to remember:
that there are two (2) different seals sizes. Only one
size will fit properly.
It's your responsibility to choose the proper size, not mine or
Remove the old ones and compare. It WILL be obvious to you
which one is right.
case it isn't so obvious, please take 30 seconds to read the
very clear instructions.
If you take
your time, you can polish this nicely and insure that no burrs
tear the seals.
as I will refer to this at the end, the very center of this
piston is where the
plunger shaft of the seal will fit and will actually NEVER make
contact unless the piston
moves back and forth allowing it to ride up the vertical ramps
on either side of center.
reaches the upper part of it's travel, contact is made with the
connectors of the switch, The circuit will be complete and the
light will come on.
cleaning the inside of the valve, good old fashioned pipe
very well and will not harm or scratch the brass valve in any
Doubled over and soaked with brake clean and the brake fluid,
will leave the valve body spotless inside and ready for the
piston and it's new seals.
smaller outlet sides the cleaners work well as singles.
way that it should look when you're done with the pipe cleaners,
except for the sealing surface for the copper gasket under the
polishing with some 1200 wet paper and some Never Dull down
everything looking like new again. It's about ready
to go back together again.
I chose to
clean the valve body with Never Dull and then Brasso before
If you do
get one of these used, make sure that the threads are OK before
little brake fluid on the valve and inside the bore and slide
the piston down
inside the valve body. It should fit snuggly and move
smoothly. If you note the
bottom of the switch pictured above, you will see a shaft that
must fit down in
between the two larger sides of the piston when it is centered
properly in the
valve body. It will again be obvious from above as you
slide the piston in place.
is, already to go. If you are smarter than me, you
will have removed
the polishing residue of the Brasso and will have already clear
coated this by now.
remember one that that many seem to forget. If you have
brake fluid leaking
from the switch, replacing the switch will NOT fix the leaking
As you have
seen the two seals on the piston only serve to hold back the
in each respective side of the four (4) circuits to each corner
of the chassis
and once there is a leak in a line or wheel cylinder or caliper,
the valve can move
in the direction of the leak or weaker pressure side and will
cause the shaft on
the bottom of the switch to make contact and cause the brake
to come on as a warning that pressure has drop when the pedal is
seals have become cracked / hardened and fluid starts to go by
it has only one avenue of escape and that is up through the
shaft of the switch, which is not sealed to resist the pressure
the brakes are applied. This is why replacing the switch
will solve nothing.