This is one of the original pumps from eBay.
to show a lot of views to highlight how well Jeff can clean and
This one is
to show how the spring belongs on the lever so I don't forget
ends must catch back here to work properly.
replacement pumps don't have these and rely on the internal
cover is off and here is years of debris, but it's not really
screen is original and can be a bit fragile. Removing it
will reveal the
shellac and varnish built up inside. And this is from when
gasoline had real additives.
of the pieces ready to be bagged and sent to Jeff.
This is the
bottom of the diaphragm or the suctions side.
must go down through the seal and lock into the lever arm.
More on that exact fit in a few frames. It is very important to
do it properly.
that the seal is not broken because no one makes the cups that
destroy to get it out and put the replacement back in securely.
Just leave it alone.
This is the
only tricky part, but there is an easy way to replace these
And this is
the top or the pressure side of the diaphragm
all of the parts that come in the TRF rebuilding kit.
must be careful and you have to cut the insides of the paper
to produce two rings, one for each of the valves shown below.
too bad that the cups are not there because you have two new
the diaphragm shaft, but no way to get the very thin wall cup
out without ruining it.
That is not
a thread. It is a spring that will keep the neoprene seal
these is for the inlet and one for the outlet and cannot be
parts are back from Jeff's and let's get to work.
the levers and shafts apart to clean them properly. I was
losing the tiny clips that go on the shaft and I did lose one
reassembling the pumps.
every angle, so no excuses now.
kit is matched to a pump parts set and separated.
The base of
the pump came out just great and Jeff's methods of cleaning do
not harm the seal.
There is no
junk in this guy any more.
taking the spring pictures?
I did because three weeks
later I wouldn't remember how it should fit.
goes under the lip of the lever first then the backs are caught
on the flanges.
parts all go together. No mistakes here or no
pumping after a while.
slot? The cut out slots from the diaphragm shaft lock into
meet Miss Lever.
When you press the diaphragm shaft into the lever, you must
align it and push down and turn
the diaphragm 2 holes which turns the shaft lock 90 deg. into
the lever to lock it in place.
The strip across the bottom of the lever is actually spring
steel that holds pressure against the shaft.
I used a
little Mobil Synthetic grease here to insure that the seal lasts.
applied to the end of the shaft and on the mating surface of the
lever shown above.
carefully inserted the shaft down into the seal and locked it
into the lever,
this is what your pump base should look like at this time.
the spring goes under the diaphragm, not on top of it.
Now for the
fun parts. I used a very tiny carbide end mill on my
grind away the peened down aluminum that holds the valves in
is pictured for a reason. After grinding the over lapping
you can drive the punch down through the open slot pictured here
the valve from it's seat. If you do not grind away the
material, you risk
cracking the pump housing and rendering it unusable.
I had this
little tool made at a shop where I work based on a picture that
when searching for a solution for the removal of the parts.
I regret losing the link
so that I could give the poster my thanks and credit for his
picture that I based it on. If you drill a slightly
smaller hole, you can use
leverage to work the screw against the plate and bowl and the
valve pulls right out.
valves shown earlier are installed and I use two different
stake the new valves in place. Remember that the small
round paper gaskets
must go under each of these valves for the pump to work
I also used
a deep well socket to install the valve on the left. Using
small ball peen hammer to tap it in place until it was down in
right side valve, I used a smaller socket on the inside if the
to just tap it into position and then I drove it in completely
with the same
socket as on the left side valve. Don't forget the gaskets under
Then the top housing goes
the brass screens with carb cleaner and an old worn out tooth
only one gasket from the two in in the kit that will fit the
there is no copper or leather seal for under the bolt that goes
through the center.
That will require you to head to your local hardware store. Get soft copper or something
that will resist gasoline and oil contamination over time.
doesn't look too bad.
Time for a
quick test. You should hear suction when you do this.
And you can
hear the diaphragm exhale here for a pumping noise..
is happily installed on my new engine and it's been doing very
well for the past year.
Jeff Palya at:
PalTech MicroPolishing LLC
3931 Miller Drive
Brunswick, OH 44212