This is one of the original pumps from eBay. 

I'm going to show a lot of views to highlight how well Jeff can clean and polish parts. 

This one is to show how the spring belongs on the lever so I don't forget later. 

The spring ends must catch back here to work properly. 

Cheaper replacement pumps don't have these and rely on the internal diaphragm spring. 

The top cover is off and here is years of debris, but it's not really too bad. 

The brass screen is original and can be a bit fragile.  Removing it will reveal the
shellac and varnish built up inside.  And this is from when gasoline had real additives.

There's all of the pieces ready to be bagged and sent to Jeff. 

This is the bottom of the diaphragm or the suctions side. 

That shaft must go down through the seal and lock into the lever arm. 
More on that exact fit in a few frames.  It is very important to do it properly.

It's good that the seal is not broken because no one makes the cups that you need
destroy to get it out and put the replacement back in securely.  Just leave it alone.

This is the only tricky part, but there is an easy way to replace these coming up.

And this is the top or the pressure side of the diaphragm

These are all of the parts that come in the TRF rebuilding kit. 

Yes, you must be careful and you have to cut the insides of the paper gasket
to produce two rings, one for each of the valves shown below.

It's also too bad that the cups are not there because you have two new seals for
the diaphragm shaft, but no way to get the very thin wall cup out without ruining it.

That is not a thread.  It is a spring that will keep the neoprene seal closed. 

One of these is for the inlet and one for the outlet and cannot be installed incorrectly. 

OK, the parts are back from Jeff's and let's get to work. 

Jeff pulled the levers and shafts apart to clean them properly.  I was afraid of
losing the tiny clips that go on the shaft and I did lose one reassembling the pumps.

That's every angle, so no excuses now. 

Each parts kit is matched to a pump parts set and separated. 

The base of the pump came out just great and Jeff's methods of cleaning do not harm the seal. 

There is no junk in this guy any more. 

Remember me taking the spring pictures? 
I did because three weeks later I wouldn't remember how it should fit. 

This side goes under the lip of the lever first then the backs are caught on the flanges. 

These three parts all go together.   No mistakes here or no pumping after a while.

Notice the slot?  The cut out slots from the diaphragm shaft lock into these. 

Mr. Shaft, meet Miss Lever. 

When you press the diaphragm shaft into the lever, you must align it and push down and turn
the diaphragm 2 holes which turns the shaft lock 90 deg. into the lever to lock it in place.
The strip across the bottom of the lever is actually spring steel that holds pressure against the shaft.

I used a little Mobil Synthetic grease here to insure that the seal lasts.   It's also
applied to the end of the shaft and on the mating surface of the lever shown above.

If you carefully inserted the shaft down into the seal and locked it into the lever,
this is what your pump base should look like at this time. 

Remember the spring goes under the diaphragm, not on top of it.

Now for the fun parts.  I used a very tiny carbide end mill on my Dremel to
grind away the peened down aluminum that holds the valves in place.

The punch is pictured for a reason. After grinding the over lapping metal away,
you can drive the punch down through the open slot pictured here and knock
the valve from it's seat.  If you do not grind away the material, you risk
cracking the pump housing and rendering it unusable.

I had this little tool made at a shop where I work based on a picture that I found
when searching for a solution for the removal of the parts.   I regret losing the link
so that I could give the poster my thanks and credit for his ingenuity.

This is picture that I based it on.  If you drill a slightly smaller hole, you can use
leverage to work the screw against the plate and bowl and the valve pulls right out.

The new valves shown earlier are installed and I use two different methods to
stake the new valves in place.  Remember that the small round paper gaskets
must go under each of these valves for the pump to work properly.

I also used a deep well socket to install the valve on the left.  Using a
small ball peen hammer to tap it in place until it was down in the housing. 

For the right side valve, I used a smaller socket on the inside if the valve
to just tap it into position and then I drove it in completely with the same
 socket as on the left side valve.  Don't forget the gaskets under each valve.

Then the top housing goes on.

I cleaned the brass screens with carb cleaner and an old worn out tooth brush. 

There is only one gasket from the two in in the kit that will fit the cover. 

Sadly, there is no copper or leather seal for under the bolt that goes  through the center.
That will require you to head to your local hardware store.   Get soft copper or something
that will resist gasoline and oil contamination over time.

It really doesn't look too bad. 

Time for a quick test.  You should hear suction when you do this.

And you can hear the diaphragm exhale here for a pumping noise.. 

This pump is happily installed on my new engine and it's been doing very well for the past year.

Thanks to Jeff Palya at:

PalTech MicroPolishing LLC
3931 Miller Drive
Brunswick, OH  44212
440-570-1932