These were the starting used gauges that I learned the
disassembly procedure on. All in all
they were in pretty good shape, with the exception of yellow
needles and dust inside.
what they look like from the rear. Somehow I ended up with
which worked out well, because a BCF buddy in California needed
some internal parts for his.
attention to the parts and the order of disassembly and then
two fragile cork gaskets that seal the case and keep light from
from the top, this is the order of the parts as they fit onto
the back of each small gauge.
that I said the cork gaskets were fragile? Notice there is
only one here?
They are also very light, and can disappear easily.
This is the
temperature gauge completely disassembled. The hard part
is getting the
back of the gauges away from the front back plates without
bending the needles.
is the same for the temperature, voltage and fuel gauges.
pressure gauge is different and you'll see why soon. Note
the dirt and dull paint.
That burned green light filter doesn't make the 2 watt bulbs
reflect light any
The case is now empty and
ready for bead blasting.
To keep everything together
for the individual gauges, zip locks come in handy.
The voltage gauge has a bit
of rust around the edge where it fits to the bezel.
The spare voltage gauge came
apart rather easily. Too bad mine didn't.
Again, same parts, different
faces, but you don't want to mix up the actual gauge mechanisms.
These cork seals are here
again and are a pain, but you need them.
Now comes the tough guy, the
oil pressure gauge.
There is a small leather
washer that fits on the back of that fitting between the oil
line from the block and the nipple.
The oil gauge uses this green
plastic band to deflect the light, rather than a bulb cover like
the other three.
This is what the pressure
tube looks like inside the oil pressure gauge.
This one couldn't have been very bright with all of that rust
and dull paint in there.
These are all of the pieces
that fit inside the case.
There is an offset on the oil
gauge fitting where it fits in the case that allows the retainer
nut to be tightened.
The sealer or crap down
inside the bezel must be cleaned before reassembly with the new
I soaked them overnight in
Invisible Glass spray window cleaner and let them sit. The next
everything lifted out and the black paint on the dash side of
the bezel was good as new.
These are the new seals that
I got from Nisonger for between the gauge case and the bezel.
Nice fit and much better than
the original glue and rubber o-ring type seals.
Now it's time to tackle the
two big guys.
The rear of the gauge, which
most owners never see or care about.
Gently pry away the retainer
tabs on the bezel, as with the small gauges and give it a twist,
like opening a jar. Because of their size, these seem to
come apart easier that the small gauges.
The two screws come out and
allow the gauge to drop out of the case.
Don't loose the spacer
washers! And don't try to pry off the rubber seal.
It's part of the front side.
Yeah, I know it's another
tach case by the number, but did you?
Keep these together for each
gauge so that you're not looking for them later.
These rubber seals are a
molded part of the front insulator. Gently work the edges
of each outer seal lip down into the hole it borders and it will
come out in the front.
This is what the front side
looks like and it is fragile after being in there for 34 or more
I used some vinyl renew on each of these to soften them up and
bring them back to life.
I used some Tanner's
Leather/Vinyl renew on
each of these to soften them up and bring them back to life.
So here is Mr. Tachometer,
fully exposed and sitting on the front bezel.
Note the dried and flaking
paint specs inside? Some low pressure clean air from a can
will dispel this material.
These cork seals are here
again and are a pain, but you need them.
It's time to get the
speedometer apart. Just in case you ever thought of
blowing a little air
inside the case to clean the white dust from your gauge face or
glass, don't do it. This is what happens.
Don't even think about
messing with the odometer cable yet. Plenty of time for
I thought that the Voltage
Stabilizer was throwing up, but was later told this was a
Yeah, right. The new
Moss solid state unit will replace this and it will go to the
So now that the bezel and
lens is off, what am I going to do with this mess?
I used some of the "good" non
toxic air in a can with NO CHEMICALS that could screw up the
This is how the Odometer
Reset Cable is removed. Yes, it's a pain, but Smith did
this not Lucas.
Just push in on each of those
tabs and the cable slides out. Pushing the cable back in
will lock it in place.
It's important to get all of
the junk out of here, but do not disturb or get it into the
lubricant on the gears.
I used the air nozzle to blow
away from the gauge inner workings.
Static cling allows this
stuff to stick everywhere, including the glass and gauge face.
We have a cure for that
coming up in a few frames.
I also used a horsehair
detail brush to get it out of the nooks and crannies.
That looks much better, but
with what products for the cleaning?
I cleaned each gauge face by
applying the Pledge Electronics to a soft cotton cloth and lightly
wiping the face.
After a few minutes, I
applied the Pledge Anti-Dust Formula to another clean cloth and
repeated the process.
The gasket between the gauge
housing and bezel is made of thin paper.
Don't lose or break it.
I don't have a source to recommend for them.
So here are all of the cases,
prior to my buddy Tom's expert bead blasting.
And the after bead blasting
look of the backs.
Now the old flaky paint is
gone from inside and after a washing, they are ready for primer.
I masked the backs completely
as I wanted to use a one step Rustoleum Clear Coat on that area.
Tom was nice enough to mask
the green light filters when he blasted them, but I decided to
eliminate them completely.
Two light coats of primer and
then two even coats of Satin finish top coat.
These bad boys will reflect
light now. And no more dust on the glass or gauge faces
It's not that important to
get it all the way down in the tubes. Actually it could be bad for the
bulb socket grounds on that surface.
After a few days of drying, I
masked the inside hole openings of each gauge and covered the
Two coats of Rustoleum One
Step Clear sealed these up nicely.
All set and ready for
The rubber insulators are the
first to go back in the big units. Tanner's Leather/Vinyl dressing gets
them soft and pliable again.
The gauge faces are cleaned
and shined up with the two Pledge products.
That looks much better
sitting in the newly painted housing.
For ease of assembly,
some Vasoline on a Q-tip around the edge of the housing
and on the bezel mating
surface will make these go together a lot smoother.
All set and ready to go
in with the new dash mounting gasket (o-ring) in place.
I did use a good glass
cleaner on each glass and assembled them with white cotton
gloves on so no finger prints would get on the inside of the
The reverse procedure
again for the speedometer as well as the odometer trip cable
The voltage stabilizer
mounts on the edge of the bracket. Just not this one.
The new o-ring for between
the gauge and the dash is also installed.
The white paint inside
the bulb holders help the turns signal and high beam glow
That's about it for
A little caution
putting these back together. Note the cork gasket isn't in
in the picture below the needle won't bottom out.
Once the gauge is
loosened on the back and moved slightly, it drops in place and
the needle hits bottom.
You can see the cork is
now flush to the housing. The o-ring for these is more
square than the large gauges.
That's the way the
gauges should look when properly in the cases.
This is the offset on
the oil pressure gauge that must held in the housing to tighten
All set and ready to
And don't forget the
leather washer on the oil line fitting coming from the engine.
The final views of all
gauges ready for the new dash, but that's another page.
And the final
They were never this
bright, even when new.