This is what we installed.

On a cold and rainy day in March, the conversion began, with Marc Goldblatt, the designer and manufacturer
of this fine product, Eric Nygaard, owner of HMS and me.  Along with a nice 120K BTU heater in my garage.

Before we even start, these covers are very important unless you hate your paint.

This is the starting picture with the stock fuse panel, starter relays and my add on headlamp and coolant fan relays installed.

This is about what you need to get it going as the new wire comes with the kit and the tools are well within everyone's box.

Dunkin Donuts coffee is optional.  Good wire cutters, soldering gun, jumpers, Volt/Ohm meter with good test probes, a good cordless
drill with sharp bits, heat shrink and a few solder less terminals for quick linking and testing.  Everything is soldered for final installation.

Marc supplies each kit with the wire that you need to do this right.  The clear pack on the right is spare fuses and a puller.

The first step is to remove all of the old original parts as shown above, but not without reviewing
the schematic and several other references that proved once again, every Triumph can be different than the manual.

The next step is to compare the schematic provided with what your wire actually looks like.  If you are
not the original owner, there may have been repairs or there may been have things added  that won't be color coded.

A better look at what the wiring schematic should look like.  My car didn't quite match this diagram.

The next step is to indentify and tag each wire with the supplied tags so you will know what goes where.

It is better to do this while you can easily identify the wires from the relays and fuse panel.  Marc provides the labels as well.

This is what you have to do for the ones that you're not sure about and NOW is the tie to do that, rather than later.

Three wiring diagrams and not one is exactly right and no one ever messed with the wiring on this car.

A good example of what I said above is my added headlamp wiring kit with relays, which I decided to keep.

But it was time to remove all of the old relays and the fuse panel and get some rewiring done.

A quick test fit of the fuse panel on its new mounting screws in the original fuse panel tapped holes.

The next step is to mark and drill the two new holes to tap with 10X32 threads for the Allen head attachment
screws.  This unit uses the two original holes on the left to mount the panel, so that part is very easy.  Just
be careful drilling into the inner panel as there is a fender on the other side of that reinforcement.

For those who don't know them, Marc is on the left and Eric is drilling and avoiding the camera on the right.

This is Marc tapping them out for a nice professional job.  I take pictures and ask a lot of questions for now.

This is a nice neat way to hang this panel.  It will be tight on the right due to my existing H/L Relay Kit, but others without won't have that problem.

Before installing the new fuse panel, I wanted a little insulation to protect the paint.  I can thank my wife for these protector pads.

The box now fits in nicely. 

As you can see from this view, it does fit in their quite well.

These were all of the old parts that we removed from the left inner fender well.  In a bag and into my original parts bin.

A look from down under where the wiring will start to be fed to.

Time to start feeding some wires down to the interior.

It looks like a giant mess, but there is a method to doing this, unfortunately it's just not a neat one at this point in time.

The wires are all hooked up and only the heater fan is inoperative.  Why??  Too late to do anymore tonight.

I could not get any of my pictures to come out of the wiring as it was all hanging down under the dash, so all I have is going back together.

Up in this area is where the big cluster of green wires is al bundled together for the dash lights and all of the accessories.

See that yellow spade sticking down in the rubber boot, next to the duct?  That was the missing heater ground that we found in the morning.

These neatly run wires replace all of that and allow for a smooth exit out to the engine compartment.

The peeling paint is the result of a leaking master cylinder back in the late 80's. 

Everything now is new and the fluid is silicone DOT5.

The next step is to fit every wire to the connectors after cutting to length and solder "tinning" each end.

Having a bench soldering unit with a cooling holder saves a lot of bending over and potential damage from a hot pistol type gun tip.

The shiny tip on the end of the white wire is "tinned" for better contact under the connector screws.

The final installation came out just great.

The final product, all wrapped and tested.  A nice modern and neat addition to any TR6 wiring harness.

Thanks to Marc and Eric for all of their help and guidance ad hard work to pull this off so quickly.

Classic Technologies, Inc.

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