This is what Allan and his crew did and  how he got there is below.

First step, remove all damaged sheet metal and get frame checked out completely.

It's time to do something with those stupid drains to nowhere. 

Luckily, just a bunch of dirt, but no rust on either side.  The new drains will exit
via the forward filler panels shown below with the weather strip still attached.

Next the front panel will be removed, after all of the welds are removed by grinding.

These were actually welded in very nicely at the factory.

Again, I was lucky and had no rust in the usual spots that are vulnerable.

Now that the front panel is off, it's time for inner panel alignment and the first
of many panel fittings and frame checkings before any actual welding takes place..

This is a very tedious process and must be done to get the proper panel alignment.

All of the sheet metal came from The Roadster Factory and was British Heritage
quality.  The hood was the last of the actual OEM hoods that Charles had left on stock.

OK, panels are back off after a lot of alignment and several things have happened.
Everything is fit properly and the drain areas on both inner fenders have been
cleaned completely and covered with two coats of POR15 Rust Inhibitor for protection.

Since the entire car is being painted, now was the time to get rid of 34 years of tiny
dings and dents that are very irritating to look at when waxing the car.

That also includes the close encounter that the deck lid had with a rake about five years ago.

The hood had to be prepped inside and out for paint since no insulation hides any panels.

All primed and ready to be fit to the fenders one last time before painting.

Now it's time to get the rest of the paint down and prepped for color coating.

The front panel is painted inside and out and clear coated on the
inside prior to final fitting and welding to the inner panels.

Once that is completed, all of the wiring can be reinstalled and covered again.

Everything was checked before the welding was done .
Here you can see that only the top of the fender is bolted in, hence the gap at the bottom.

Welding of the front panel is done and priming and prep of those areas is next.

After the welding, Allan used seam sealer in every welded area, which will be primed
and color coated, followed by a clear coat to match the under hood paint from last year.

This is a must for a lasting job and no rust areas in the future.

One last time, back on with the fenders and the bumper, but it's coming off prior to color coating.

Even the hood hinges are bolted in to insure proper fit and alignment.

While the panel guys fit the front, the paint team got the rear end ready for color coating.

Now the fenders are bolted completely down, aligned and ready for paint.

Color coating followed by clear and all of the welded areas are sealed permanently.

This attention to detail by A&E really makes a difference.  You can't see a lot of this
when the car is all back together, but it's great to know that it's fixed this well underneath.

The hood has been color coated and clear coated on the inside only.

Now the final fender adjustments will be made.

This is when the hood is easiest to align properly.  The grille is out of the car and access is easy.

Perfect color match and everything back together as it should be.

Sadly, all of these areas had to be removed to get the door handles and weather strips off.

These caused a lot of discussion on BCF & 6-Pack Forums, but after painting, most admit they look great.

Now the paint prep team begins the final wet sanding with 1800 paper to get ready for color coating.

With the windshield out, now was the time to replace my original dash pad.

These can be real trouble spots for rust and holes.  I got lucky again and no issues here either.

That soapy water sanding mix makes everything very smooth after cleanup.

Paint Master Jorge works his magic with the base color coating.

A&E masked everything and taped it down to the floor to prevent over spray from
getting inside the hood and on the painted and powder coated chassis.

Looking good between coats and sandings.

Jorge also sealed the each of panels with hidden foam to prevent buildup and overspray.

Now the clear coats have been applied.  That makes the base coat really pop out at you.

This was a great painting performance by Jorge.

All that remains is another hand sanding and then buffing.

This was the only way to never have to worry about matching my old paint.

These are after the wet sanding with 1800 and buffing.

Not a spec of dust in the paint or run anywhere.

Now the effort put into the panel fitting really shows up.

This is going to look great with the chrome and decals back on.

The new dash pad, all ready to be glued down in front prior to the windshield frame installation.

I'm glad that's finally done.  It looks much better then the original and the paint is good underneath.

This is the drain from a 65-66 Mustang rear quarter panel that Allan installed inside the inner fender panel.

This view is looking up inside the right front fender, towards the door,
with the right front wheel removed for access.  The hose runs from the original drain,
shown in the earlier photos with the fenders off to here.  No more water just left in the panel.

These are tricky, but using a piece of 3/4" masking tape parallel to the lamp makes alignment easy.

I ordered new Konig Rewinds, in a 16" X 7" with new Falken tires back in August.
We put them on the night the bumpers and moldings went back on.

Everything matches and fits well, but we have to spray inside the hood side panels
next spring.  That's a minor issue that was an oversight along the way.

I can't wait to get it home for a good cleanup and dust removal.  As great as these guys
are about protecting the car, it's inevitable that it will be somewhere, so no big deal.

The tape on the door shows where the new mirrors will bottom out.

The newly rechromed original bumper and a new spoiler all set to go.

Now where did I set the headlamp trim rings down???

This is the new look of the mirrors.  What  difference in being able to see behind me.

I believe that they compliment the looks of the TR6 and are soooo easy to adjust.

Anti glare glass keeps the SUV and Beemer high beams out of your eyes.

I found two of the original cast light blue emblems on eBay about three years ago.

It's great to have a rear view mirror that works on this side too.

And that's how the matched set looks on the car.

They make a huge difference in visibility and look good too.

All cleaned up and in the sun before the big rain storm hit.

The color outside looks more like the original Mimosa than under the shop lights.

The panel alignment and fit is great.

Nice to get the dust off of the rear window and dress the top with cleaner and sealer.

That's the look, until May when the top comes back down again for the summer.

Thanks to Allan and his crew, cleanup under here was relatively easy.

I still have a few more stainless steel bolts to replace under here.

That's it until spring!

Another fine job by Allan and his guys at:

A&E Auto Body

50 Alden Street

Pawtucket, RI  02861

401-722-2204