This is one of the original pumps from eBay.   I actually got a few more and the pictures I used from my previous page.

I'm going to show a lot of views to highlight how well Jeff can clean and polish parts. 

This one is to show how the spring belongs on the lever so I don't forget later. 

The spring ends must catch back here to work properly. 

Cheaper replacement pumps don't have these and rely on the internal diaphragm spring. 

The top cover is off and here is years of debris, but it's not really too bad. 

The brass screen is original and can be a bit fragile.  Removing it will reveal the
shellac and varnish built up inside.  And this is from when gasoline had real additives.

There's all of the pieces ready to be bagged and sent to Jeff. 

This is the bottom of the diaphragm or the suctions side. 

That shaft must go down through the seal and lock into the lever arm. 
More on that exact fit in a few frames.  It is very important to do it properly.

It's good that the seal is not broken because no one makes the cups that you need
destroy to get it out and put the replacement back in securely.  Just leave it alone.

These valves are the only tricky part, but there is an easy way to replace these coming up.

And this is the top or the pressure side of the diaphragm

These are all of the parts that come in the Then and Now rebuilding kit. 

Yes, you must be careful and you have to cut the insides of the paper gasket
to produce two rings, one for each of the valves shown below.

These do come with a great base seal, that is easy to install, to prevent fuel loss at the bottom
of the pump should the diaphragm suddenly fail.

This is a view of the bottom of the seal.

That is a new longer shaft for the lower pump lever and three (two needed) clips to fit into the grooves. 

The spring also fits on the lever, but there will be more on that later in the process.

One of these valves is for the inlet and one for the outlet and cannot be installed incorrectly. 

The two round gaskets have been cut and separated and one goes under each valve in the upper pump body.

Let's take a closer look at these newer style valves.   This would be the bottom of each, showing the spring that holds the valve closed.

And this is the top end of the valve showing the little diaphragm down inside it.

OK, so the parts are back from Advanced, so here we go.   Very nice work, indeed!!

This is the upper half of the pump and both valves have been removed, but not before grinding away the staked edges. 

The micro-polishing process does not affect this seal and it's worn, but still sort of a back up.  I left it in there, but lubed it well.

Here's the nice and shiny plated parts waiting to be assembled.. 

Both the top and lower sections of the pump, polished beautifully by Jeff at Advanced.

Here's everything that I need, including some extra's and away we go. 

A closer look at the valves to go into the upper section and the base seal for the lower section.

The seal is now in place, facing the proper direction and waiting the shaft, diaphragm and spring to be installed. 

The spring is now on, which as you can see, will hold down the seal forever.

The new little spring that I showed earlier goes in here to provide a push back for the hand priming and the down side of the cam lobe.

When that goes in place, you can see how much nicer the slightly longer shaft is, as it makes getting the clips on a lot easier.

I pulled the seal back off and added some synthetic Mobil One lube on this old seal, just to protect it.

This shows the new diaphragm, shaft and spring ready to install through the new seal and then the old, before locking into the lever.

Some lube here never hurts either and does keep the pump quiet. 

This is the way that the diaphragm assembly should look when it is down and locked into place.

Now is a great time to install the priming lever return spring, which will keep tension on the primer ram.

BUT DON'T DO IT LIKE THIS!!!!!  The spring goes on the INSIDE of the lever as shown in the TWO pictures below.

This is the proper view of the spring installed under the lever.  These pictures are after the pump is assembled.

This is a good time to test the suction of the pump by
pushing the lever up and down so as to hear the suction and feel the pressure pushing out of the exit side of the pump.

That should clear up any confusion as to the proper spring orientation.

Now back to the assembly of the pump as I got ahead of my self in correcting my previous posting error.

These are two paper gaskets that fit under each valve.  It is important to bottom the valves out when you seat them, then
re-stake the housing in several places to hold them permanently in place.

There they are, ready to go.  The intake or suction side is on the bottom and draws fuel from the tank, when the diaphragm pulls down. 
The exit or exhaust side is on the top and opens when fuel is pushed against it to go to the carburetors. 

I do use one screw in place to keep the diaphragm in it's proper position until the two case halves are put together.

Please remember to put the spring under the lever as shown earlier and on my previous pump rebuild page.

Upper and lower are together and the screen is next inplace. 

A view from the bottom after the top cap and gaskets are installed. 

Please remember to put the spring under the lever as shown earlier and on my previous pump rebuild page.

You should have a nice seal all around the two body seams as the diaphragm is retained and seals between them.

Please remember to put the spring under the lever as shown earlier and on my previous pump rebuild page.

This is the outlet side going to the carbs.  Don't forget the seal under the bolt on top.

Thanks to Jeff Schlemmer at:

Advanced Distributors, LLC
1149 Quincy St
Shakopee, MN 55379
Phone (612) 804-5543