There are no pictures of the original pedal, but the paint was worn
off and it was rusted from years of driving that simply took it's toll.

  The shaft showing in the engine compartment looked rusty as well.

So here we are back from the powder coating and they came out great.

They really did a nice job and this should last longer than the original.

For anyone interested, this color is officially called "Black Chrome"
and is readily available in standard form from any of the major powder suppliers.

If I had known about this earlier, my chassis parts would be in this color.

If you paint or powder coat this part, it's very important to not get too much
down in the area that goes over the splines on the end of the pedal shaft..

This area should not have heavy paint or powder coat either.  I cleaned the
 splines and sprayed a very light coat of clear enamel on to prevent rusting.

.

These are two collars that I picked up at a local MSC before Art sent me his new kit.
I did get the bolt/nut/washer coated as well because these tend to get rusty quickly.

The yellow collars are supplied by Art and are made from aluminum.  They are
 pre-drilled and fit with the set screws.  I just had them powder coated them in yellow.

So Art's kit will be the two (2) aluminum collars, the two (2) different nylon
sleeves, the nylon flat washer and the cotter pin for the end of the shaft.

While the MSC collars are nice, they don't quite fit over the powder coated shaft,
so it's a good thing that Art came along with these aluminum collars..

This shows the collar in place and how it holds the longer of the two nylon bushings
in place.  The trick here is to put the shaft in place with the bushing loose and
facing towards the drivers feet.  A deep well socket over the shaft and behind
the flange of the bushing allows it to be tapped into place easily for a tight fit.

The long length of the shaft makes for a really tight fit inside the cockpit if you
drive the bushing into the firewall first.  There isn't room for the proper angle
to get the shaft up into position and through the bushing with it in the firewall.

It's hard to see with all of my plumbing, but the shaft lever and locking
nut are visible below the Ratco bracket to the left of the heater hoses.

By nature of the design, these hold the flange of the right side shorter bushing
in place.  The flat washer and cotter pin are on the passenger inside, up behind
the rear of the glove box.  The carpet will need to be moved to see them clearly.

The kit supplied by Arthur saves running around to get matching parts that
will fit the holes in the firewall on each side and fit over the pedal shaft snugly.

This modification, along with the Ratco Linkage Kit, will take all of the sloppy
movement out of the TR6 throttle mechanism at once and for a long time ahead.

I have an installation page for the Ratco kit on my site below and even though
it depicts the installation for my triple carbs, Tony designed the kit for the stock twins.

There have been many attempts to replace the miserable factory style bushings
that are so hard to install and Art is the first to come up with a kit with everything.

Another similar set of instructions with the engine out and good pictures from
Bob Danielson (aka BobbyD) and his great TR6 web site  -  Art Lipp Throttle Bushing Installation

My final resolution for binding linkages  - Ratco Throttle Linkage installation

Tony's on line store (Ratco) - Roadtronics Automotive Technology Company, Inc.

Art Lipp's contact  - Art Lipp